(first published 11/8/15, updated 3/4/20) Table of Contents Introduction What Are The Different Anchor Cleaning Methods? Detailed Steps For All Three Methods Step By Step Evaluation Major Risk Evaluation Major Risks for Lowering vs Rappelling Introduction Welcome! I wrote two different intros–one for those unfamiliar with anchor cleaning and those familiar with it. For those unfamiliar […]
Climbing in the Spring
There is a feeling I only get in the Spring, when I open the windows for the first time. Two layers of sounds come into the room. The first is of people around me: cars driving by, trains, people chatting on porches. The second is hidden in the background, and it is the one I’ve […]
Rock Climbing 9 Month Training Schedule
(edit: Updated to include routes from 5.6- to 5.14a) I recently finished reading the September Issue of Climbing Magazine, and came across a sweet article (written by Alli Rainey of allirainey.com). Someone had written in saying they climbed 5.11 but needed help getting their first 12a, and asked “What do I do to make the […]
Rock Climbing Horrors: When Gym Climbers Go Outside
(Quick note: this post was originally a quick rant for my climber friends on Facebook, but has since gotten much more exposure than that. I’m leaving it in it’s original form for historical reasons, but keep in mind–the sarcasm is heavy. The hyperbole is there to make a point. I hope it starts and continues […]